Deer Isle, Maine… The Journey Offers

Opportunity to Visit Sites Along the Way

By Ray Brasted and Susan Lazarus

Deer Isle, Maine and its primary town, Stonington, is located in the Downeast region of the state and, as the official chamber information brags, the area retains the flavor of life in the 1950s. Lobstering is the mainstay of the local economy and about 2,400 residents live there year-around. This is a place to get away for a few days, which was exactly our plan.

Getting to Deer Isle from South Florida can be part of the travel experience. You have several options (shown at the end of this article) but all require a rental car to get to your destination, which is off the beaten path, even for Maine.

We chose to fly non-stop to Boston and rent a car. Since it takes over five hours to get onto Deer Isle, we planned a stop in Bath, ME to stay overnight at a unique inn and visit with the owner, a friend from our previous stay. On the way we stopped for lunch in Ogonquet, ME which, in July, is pretty crowded with tourists. We had our first of the vacation’s several lobster rolls and continued our journey.

Kismet Inn – Bath, ME

The Kismet Inn was just as we remembered it, a stately and beautiful home close to downtown. We had a chance to visit with Shadi Towfli and enjoy her inn and company for a few hours. She recommended a nice restaurant, Solo Bistro, located on nearby Front Street. After a great night’s sleep in the peaceful Inn and consuming one of Shadi’s signature home-made breakfasts, we headed for our island destination.

Artist’s Home

When we drove up the quiet country road we knew we were in a different land. Nestled on seven acres was a home designed by Kendra, a noted artist who greeted us at the door. For the next three days we experienced a loving setting with a gracious host who is also a fabulous baker.

Barred Island

Our first day on Deer Isle we hiked the Barred Island Preserve Trail, part of the Island Heritage Trust and Nature Conservancy. This was about a mile of a moderate to a sometimes a bit difficult walk to beautiful view of surrounding granted-based islands and cliffs formed centuries ago by slowly moving glaciers. About a dozen people in total were observed in what is the peak of the tourist season.

Mail Boat

The nearby Isle au Haut island community is a forty-five minute ferry ride on the island’s mail boat. Getting around is by walking or hitching a ride (locals are happy to pick you up, we were told). On the day we were there we heard a local, free concert by folk singer Gordon Bok and his wife. Tales of the sea and the ships that travelled in and out of Stonington harbor brought smiles to the the locals who knew many of the stories.

Black Dinah Chocolatiers

This is a “must-visit” cafe hidden in the shadows of Black Dinah Mountain on Isle Au Haut offering hand-crafted chocolates, pastries and fresh brewed, organic coffee. The co-owner, Kate, makes everything from scratch and you can also find her products in area markets and specialty shops.

But there is nothing like sitting in the “living room” of this home sipping from large coffee mugs, eating fresh baked goods and chatting with locals and visitors. And, you can also go on line thanks to the free wi-fi. “Lingering is encouraged”, said Steve, who is co-owner with his wife.

We lingered as long as we could. After the local concert we caught the mailboat back to Stonington and our last night on Deer Isle.

Portsmouth, New Hampshire – Ale House Inn

We had decided to stop over in Portsmouth, NH on our return to Boston. We felt that being an hour or so from Boston’s Logan Airport was a good idea for our return so it was simply a practical decision to stay there.

What a surprise. This historic area of this old seaport city has been restored and teems with specialty shops and wonderful restaurants either on the water or nearby.

We stayed at the Ale House Inn, a multi-use brick building with ten guest rooms on the second floor. The owners stress service in this boutique hotel and each room has an Apple IPad complete with applications for newspapers, music and recommendations from the owners on their favorite restaurants.

Do not miss Colby’s Restaurant. The breakfast was one of the best we have ever had. The night before we ate at 106 Kitchen and Bar. This was also a place with wonderful food, great service and reasonable prices.

Portsmouth is worth much more than a layover on the way to Boston, but we are glad that we had a chance to experience this historic area and its friendly people. We hope to return and spend more time.

If getting there and back is half the fun, then this was definitely a fun trip.

 

Information You Can Use

 

Getting There: You can get to Deer Isle, several ways. We chose to fly direct from Ft Lauderdale to Boston, several carriers/ From Boston, approximately 5 ½ hours drive or longer if you hug the coast all the way.

Alternatively you can fly to Portland, which requires a stop and is a 3 ½ hour drive to Deer Isle. The shortest drive from a major airport  is 1 ½ hours  and would involve a flight to  Bangor which also requires a stop usually in Detroit, Philadelphia or Atlanta and is more pricey than the Boston run.

Our recommendations:

Eating:

Footbridge Lobster – Ogunquit, Maine / Great Lobster Roll

Solo Bistro  128 Front Street – Bath, Maine   http://www.solobistro.com – Inspired Chef

Black Dinah Chocolatier for Deserts – Pastries – Isle Au Haut – The Best You Can Find

Seasons of Stonington Restaurant – Deer Isle, Maine – Nice Waterfront Dining Inside or On Deck

106 Kitchen and Bar – Portsmouth, New Hampshire – Great Prices, Downeast with New Orleans Twist

Colby’s – Porstmouth, New Hampshire – Get the lobster and egg breakfast.

Staying:

Kismet Inn – Bath, Maine – Unique with Caring Host

Artist Home on Deer Isle – visit www. airbnb.com – On seven acres.. peaceful and quiet.

Ale House Inn – Portsmouth, New Hampshire – IPads in the room and attention to service – Walk everywhere

Doing:

Deer Isle and Stonington – Small population, even in the summer.

Hiking the Barred Island Preserve – Doable for just about every level of hiker… a mile to beautiful views.

Isle Au Haut Ferry – http://www.isleauhaut.com, schedule subject to weather – 45 minutes to another world.

Stonington Opera House

Haystack Mt School of Crafts  http://www.haystack-mtn.org

Shopping

Seasons of Stonington shop

Burnt Cove Market / V & S Variety Store

Left Bank Bookstore – Searsport, ME

Various art galleries on the island

 

Ed. Note: Ray Brasted is publisher of several publications and web sites. Susan Lazarus is a writer who covers destinations, entertainment, dining, theater and book reviews.

 

Category: Travel Features